Fast
Lockpicking
One major
disadvantage of conventional lockpicking techniques is that they require
special training on the use of special equipment. This training can take
time and experience is required to finally achieve the status of an expert
who can pick a lock in a few minutes. In a stressful and dangerous situation
picking a lock in a few minutes is a proposition that can be complicated
by various scenarios. This article will discuss techniques for very fast
lockpicking techniques that let go of the need of conventional techniques.
Conventional
Techniques
The normal way to pick a lock involves the use of a lock-pick set to turn
and open a pin tumbler lock. The pin tumbler is the very common type of
lock found on front doors, padlocks and a lot of cars internationally.
The pins in a pin tumbler lock the keyway from turning unless the correct
combination in the form of the key leads to the actuation of the keyway
and the opening of the door. The problem is that with a normal lock pick
set each pin has to be set individually, this is a laborous process requiring
patience suited to an experienced locksmith, it is unsuitable for stressful
situations let alone for the use of an amateur in an operational scenario.
The Simplest
Bypass
The common way of opening doors as seen on real life crime tv and movies
is to wedge the door open using a crowbar. In this way the door is physically
separated from the door frame so that the bolt is no longer lodged in
the door frame allowing the door to open. There are complications to this
method the first and important one being that this cannot be done with
doors that rest in concrete or steel walls, the wall of the door would
have to be constructed of a plyable material like wood to allow the doorframe
to expand sufficiently to open the door. Even so newer door frames have
prepared for this contingency by using a wooden 'ledge' hiding the opening
between the door and the frame in such a way that a better access to the
space between the door and the frame is required.
The Simplest
Bypass Redone
To build on the simple bypass we take a look at the equipment being used
replacing it with simple but better suitable devices than a simple crowbar.
Instead of just a crowbar we can also use wooden wedges and a steel strip
with an inverted 'V' slot on one side. If the door frame has a wooden
ledge this has to be removed using a crowbar. Then the crowbar is used
to slightly wedge the door above and below the bolt each time placing
a slim wooden wedge there to keep the space open. Then the slotted knife
is inserted above the bolt, pressed down and pulled to actuate the spring
bolt. This will work with doors that are not locked all the way, as the
well known second bolt on door locks is not actuated by a spring and cannot
be pulled back by a blade. A further enhancement to this type of door
entry is by the use of inflatable door wedges instead of wooden door wedges
but either will do with the inflatable wedges being easier to use.
Straight
Shims
A straight shim is a small thin, flat strip of spring steel that is curved
by width and striaght by length. It can only be used on locks where the
separation of the keyway tumbler and the lock is accessible. (If you look
at the key entry of a lock you will see that the part of the keyway that
turns is separated from the body of the lock.) The shim can be inserted
into this spacing while quickly moving each internal pin with a simple
pick so that the strip of metal will completely separate the two parts
of the pins that are responsible for the turning of the lock. It is a
lot simpler to actually do this than describe it but this will work only
for locks which are not protected against this exploit.
Padlock
Shims
Padlocks are very annoying to pick as they require the operator to hold
the padlock in an accessible position while the pin tumbler is picked.
This takes more expertise and skill than picking a normal door lock. A
padlock shim can bypass all this difficult work, it is placed in the spacing
between the lock body and the inner side of the arm of the padlock which
is usually always accessible. Once the shim is there it can be turned
using its handle so as to extract the bolt from the notch in the arm opening
the lock. Expensive locks have built in protection against this by the
use of twin bolts for both sides of the padlock arm but it usually nearly
always works with cheaper padlocks.
Lockpick
Gun
A very well known tool, it is in wide use today for quick door entry.
The lock pick gun works on mathematical principles of chance. A striker
moves to hit all the pins in in a tumbler lock and with that there is
a very good chance that the pins will by chance be in the correct place
at the correct time and lead to the opening of the lock. This is not really
a simple tool and does require practice for its fast lockpicking use.
Both mechanical and electrical versions are available in lock-pick shops
with the electrical being more comfortable to use. This is a good tool
but against locks of very new design can be troubling to use and the expansion
of the keyway is usually required with a screwdriver before being effective.
Drilling
The Lock
Drilling is by far the best way of accessing a lock quickly. It is a sure
thing and is very fast compared to the other techniques listed above.
There are two ways to use a drill; The easy way is to use a tiny drill
bit to drill a hole in the shoulder of the lock just above the keyway,
this totally bypasses the tumbler pins. After drilling the hole, the length
of a key, a very thin tiny screwdriver can be placed in the hole to separate
the tumbler pins and the lock is simply turned by using a larger flat
screwdriver. The second brute force technique is to drill out the whole
keyway using a larger drill bit and then forcing the inner side of the
bolt in the now open keyway open. There are things to consider when using
a drill; The drill should be of the silent type, the less noise the better
so as to avoid being discovered before the door is open. Also a battery
powered drill is important as the work being done is usually far away
from a power socket.
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